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논문검색은 역시 페이퍼서치

복식문화연구검색

The Research Journal of the Costume Culture


  • - 주제 : 자연과학분야 > 가정
  • - 성격 : 학술지
  • - 간기: 격월
  • - 국내 등재 : KCI 등재
  • - 해외 등재 : -
  • - ISSN : 1226-0401
  • - 간행물명 변경 사항 :
논문제목
수록 범위 : 23권 6호 (2015)

제로 웨이스트 패션 디자인 실현을 위한 디자인 방법론-ZWPM 유형 특성을 중심으로-

윤진영 ( Jinyoung Yoon ) , 임은혁 ( Eunhyuk Yim )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  23권 6호, 2015 pp. 929-939 ( 총 11 pages)
5,100
초록보기
Zero-waste is sustainable development for ensuring continuous interactions with the environment as well as for the next generations, while expanding across industries. Zero-waste fashion design does not necessarily mean that we should stop making clothes in order to reduce waste, but we consider the social values of sustainability regarding the environment, humans, and profit. In particular, in the pre-use stage of zero-waste fashion design, fashion designers play critical roles. The purpose of this study is to develop a methodology for the realization of zero-waste fashion design through establishing the typology of zero-waste pattern making (ZWPM) as well as exploring the practical implications of zero-waste fashion design. For the realization of zero-waste fashion design that draws from pattern-making principals, this study categorizes zero-waste fashion design into zero-waste pattern cutting (ZWPC) and non-pattern cutting (NPC). ZWPC is based on drafting patterns on a piece of fabric, which can enable the sharing of patterns and processes, while NPC requires little- or non- cutting/sewing in optimizing a piece of fabric, bringing the possibility of creating indefinite forms. ZWPC is sub-categorized into tailored and non-tailored, and NCP into draped and folded. Then, by implementing the typology in undergraduate design programs, this study tests and completes the design methodology for the realization of zero-waste fashion design.

패스트 패션 브랜드에 대한 재구매 의도-제품 특성, 소비자 특성, 인지부조화-

전경숙 ( Kyung Sook Jeon ) , 박혜정 ( Hye Jung Park )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  23권 6호, 2015 pp. 940-954 ( 총 15 pages)
5,500
초록보기
The purpose of this study is to identify the antecedents of repurchase intention toward fast fashion brands. Perceived quality, perceived price, deindividuation, and overly trendy styles, which are product characteristic variables, and fashion innovativeness, which is a consumer characteristic variable, were considered as antecedents. It was hypothesized that product and consumer characteristics influence repurchase intention toward fast fashion brands not only directly, but also indirectly through cognitive dissonance. Data were gathered by surveying university students in Seoul using convenience sampling. Three hundred and fifty-two questionnaires were used in the statistical analysis. SPSS was used for exploratory factor analysis, and AMOS was used for confirmatory factor analysis and path analysis. The factor analysis of product characteristics revealed four dimensions: "perceived quality", "perceived price", "deindividuation", and "overly trendy styles", and the factor analysis of consumer characteristics revealed one dimension. The factor analysis of cognitive dissonance revealed two dimensions, "regrets" and "perceived uncertainty." The hypothesized path test proved that perceived quality, deindividuation, overly trendy styles, and fashion innovativeness influence repurchase intention directly. Perceived price and deindividuation influence repurchase intention indirectly through the factor of cognitive dissonance, which is the perceived uncertainty, indicating the importance of cognitive dissonance. The results indicate effective marketing strategies should be used to decrease consumers` cognitive dissonance, and suggestions for future study are provided.

현대 여성복에 나타난 중국 명,청 시대 전통복식의 디자인 특성

주가이 ( Jiayi Zhu ) , 하승연 ( Seung Yeon Ha )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  23권 6호, 2015 pp. 955-971 ( 총 17 pages)
5,700
초록보기
The purpose of this study is to consider the design characteristics of Chinese traditional clothing, especially from the Ming-Qing Dynasty era, and how they have influenced contemporary fashion. Regarding research methods, this study determined the design characteristics, such as the form, color and pattern of Chinese traditional clothing of the Ming-Qing Dynasty era. In addition, 440 photos were collected from the Paris Collection from 2005 to 2014 using www.firstviewkorea.com. The results of this study are as follows. First, the most popular silhouette from Chinese traditional clothing appearing in contemporary fashion was the H-shaped one, and the internal lines appeared in the following order: Chinese collar; narrow sleeve; symmetrical front opening; round collar; wide sleeve; and the C-shaped Biwa front-end. Second, the most popular color was achromatic black, followed by white. The chromatic colors were in the order of blue, yellow, red, green, and purple. Third, the patterns appeared in the following order: Plant patterns, complex patterns, and animal patterns. The peony pattern appeared the most commonly as a plant pattern, followed by the arabesque pattern and the plum blossom pattern which appeared with a similar proportion. Dragon, bird and phoenix patterns appeared the most for animal patterns. It is considered that the results of this study will be helpful for designing products for Korean fashion brands that will advance to the Chinese market. In addition, it will help Chinese designers apply the Chinese-style design characteristics popular among people throughout the world when they advance to the West.

중국 결혼 이민 여성의 문화적응에 따른 의생활 적응과 의복소비행동

손진아 ( Jin Ah Son ) , 김순영 ( Soon Young Kim ) , 추호정 ( Ho Jung Choo ) , 남윤자 ( Yun Ja Nam )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  23권 6호, 2015 pp. 972-986 ( 총 15 pages)
5,500
초록보기
This study seeks to explore the relationship between clothing adaptation and acculturation for married Chinese immigrant women. In addition, it aims to analyze the differences in their clothing consumption behaviors according to acculturation level. To achieve these purposes, a quantitative research study was conducted on 291 wives of Korean-Chinese multicultural families in Seoul and Gyeonggi. The data was analyzed using factor analysis, cluster analysis, ANOVA, and the Duncun test. The findings were as follows. First, the women were divided into three groups based on their level of acculturation, which was defined as ``assimilated``, ``marginalized`` and ``segregated``. Second, the relationship between their acculturation level and their clothing adaptation was identified. The marginalized group had the lowest level of clothing adaptation. Third, the groups` differences in clothing selection criteria were analyzed. The segregated group considered the practical aspects (price, color, quality) of clothing to be more important than the other groups. The marginalized group scored the lowest in valuing the aesthetic factors (design, style, trendiness) of clothing. Finally, conformity of clothing consumption varied significantly based on acculturation level. The assimilated and marginalized groups showed higher levels conformity than did the segregated group. Clothing purchase location also varied significantly between the three groups. The assimilated and marginalized groups preferred online shopping, but members of the segregated group preferred to carry out their shopping off-line. This study showed that clothing adaptation and clothing consumption behaviors play key roles in understanding the acculturation of multicultural families.

국내 남성복 컬렉션에 나타난 프레피 룩 디자인 분석

김지영 ( Ji Young Kim )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  23권 6호, 2015 pp. 987-1003 ( 총 17 pages)
5,700
초록보기
The purpose of this study is to supply available data for men`s fashion design planning by analyzing the trend and design tendency of the preppy look in the domestic men`s collection. In the men`s collection of Seoul fashion week from 2011 S/S to 2015 S/S, 494 photos judged to be the preppy look by three design specialists were chosen in Seoul fashion week and style.com`s web-site. Design analyses were compiled based on year, season, brands, item, color, material, and silhouette. The preppy look was found often in S/S season, three piece combinations were the most common, and "H", "I" silhouettes were also popular. Refined black and refreshing orange were used with traditional preppy colors like navy, beige, gray, and white. Contrast color arrangement and neutral, moderate tones were seen repeatedly. Two-thirds of fabrics were pattern-less with clean, bulky, and soft textures. Coordinating accessories like hats, backpacks, books, headsets were used frequently. Among the various preppy fashion types, there were ``traditional preppy`` faithful to tradition, ``sophisticated preppy`` with refined semi-formal look, ``sportive preppy`` with active sports sense, and ``natural preppy`` with natural and comfortable senses. In a contemporary preppy look, traditional and practical senses are combined with casual and sportive pieces. This study can provide the data for design planning, interpreting, and applying the fashion themes along with contemporary sensibilities since the preppy look is based on cultural history.

패션기업 CEO의 감성적 리더십이 기업성과에 미치는 영향-조직문화의 조절효과 연구-

김숙희 ( Sook Hee Kim ) , 양동우 ( Dong Woo Yang )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  23권 6호, 2015 pp. 1004-1020 ( 총 17 pages)
5,700
초록보기
The purpose of this study is to assess whether the emotional leadership of the CEO of a fashion company has a significant influence on corporate performance. In this study, a survey was conducten on employees of fashion companies from August 1 to 30, 2015, and 350 copies of questionnaires were collected and used for analysis. Factor analysis, reliability analysis, and regression analysis were employed to analyze the data using SPSS software (ver. 21.0). According to the study results, if a fashion company CEO has higher emotional leadership, it leads to an increase in the job satisfaction and performance of the staff members, and an improvement in new product performance thanks to more investment and development and an expanded R&D staff. Additionally, the higher emotional leadership of the CEO contributes to an increase in operating profits, sales, and market share. Therefore, the importance of organizational culture was confirmed by its regulation effect on the emotional leadership and management performance of a fashion company. According to the results of this study, the emotional leadership of a CEO plays an important role in improving the performance of a fashion company, and future studies are needed to identify how to enhance the corporate performance of a fashion company from various perspectives.

테크니컬 디자이너의 자기효능감이 직무만족과 조직몰입에 미치는 영향

김영태 ( Young Tae Kim ) , 황춘섭 ( Choon Sup Hwang )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  23권 6호, 2015 pp. 1021-1037 ( 총 17 pages)
5,700
초록보기
This study analyzed the impact of sense of self-efficacy on job satisfaction and organizational commitment among technical designers in order to acquire information needed for human resources management in the field of technical design. The study was implemented through a normative-descriptive survey method using a questionnaire. The sample consisted of 217 technical designers working at vendors and agents located in Seoul. The results revealed that there were significant differences in the sense of self-efficacy levels among technical designers according to age and work experience. Personal self-efficacy had a positive influence on both intrinsic and extrinsic job satisfaction, but also on affective, continuance, and normative organizational commitment. In addition, personal self-efficacy had a greater influence on extrinsic job satisfaction than social self-efficacy. Both personal and social self-efficacy influenced continuance commitment while there was no relationship between social self-efficacy and affective organizational commitment. However, a clear relationship was found between both social and personal self-efficacy and normative organizational commitment. Nevertheless, social self-efficacy had a greater influence on normative organizational commitment than personal self-efficacy. This fact demonstrates the need to exert more effort to promote the sense of personal self-efficacy of technical designers. These results could be used to provide appropriate proposals for human resources management in the field of technical design.

남성적 응시에 의해 구조화되는 패션사진의 시각적 재현체제에 기반 한 여성의 재현

이영희 ( Younghee Lee ) , 임은혁 ( Eunhyuk Yim )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  23권 6호, 2015 pp. 1038-1050 ( 총 13 pages)
5,300
초록보기
This study is a theoretical research to investigate a methodological framework for analyzing the representation of women in fashion photography. For this study, this article attempts to develop a conceptual framework of the visual representation system through Lacan`s gaze theory, and analyze the representational aspects of women configured by gendered characteristics in the visual representation system. Structuralizing the visual representation system based on that theory, the gaze, the image/screen, and the subject of representation in the Lacan`s triangle diagram are replaced by the camera as the signifier of gaze, the representational image, and the seeing subject respectively. In the visual representation system, the camera creates a male-oriented visual field and structures a relationship of gendered power between male gaze as the seeing subject and female eye as an object to be seen. Looking into the representational aspects of women in this visual representation system structuralized by male gaze, women are represented in a way that reflects male desire through masquerade to comply with the patriarchal gaze, or differences that emphasizes the uniqueness and autonomy of women released from a patriarchal discourse. This study would be significant in that it provides theoretical basis for an analytic approach to the representation of women in fashion photography which we accept as a fixed one through the ideology of naturalization.

African women`s hairstyles as communication media-A comparison between young and old women`s hairstyles-

( Kindavyi Lorraine ) , ( Kwon Young Suk )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  23권 6호, 2015 pp. 1051-1060 ( 총 10 pages)
4,500
초록보기
The purpose of this study is to examine the different communication messages behind African women`s hairstyles, and to compare young and old African women`s hairstyles. The contents of this research are: the hairstyle as communication media, the types of African women`s hairstyles, and the difference between young and old women`s hairstyles. We used a review of literature and an empirical study as the research methods for this study. For the literature review, we used papers on African hairstyles, and we linked hairstyles to corresponding communication. For the empirical study, we took a database of 240 pictures (120 pictures of young women and 120 pictures of old women) from websites related to African hairstyles and we analyzed the pictures to differentiate between young and old African women`s hairstyles. The results of this study reveal that African women`s hairstyles express messages of power, ceremony, and status and identification communication. Within the 240 pictures, we found out which hairstyles are preferred by young and old women. Young African women prefer long, straight hairstyles and artificial hair (wigs), while old women keep short, natural hairstyles. The result of this research will be useful for understanding African women`s hairstyles as well as contribute to the field of hair design.

대학생의 삶의 만족에 영향을 주는 변수들-사회심리적 변수들과 의복 쇼핑자신감-

박혜정 ( Hye Jung Park )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  23권 6호, 2015 pp. 1061-1081 ( 총 21 pages)
6,100
초록보기
Recently, there has been an increase in wellbeing marketing, which focuses on increasing consumer life satisfaction or consumers` sense of subjective wellbeing. Numerous studies have been conducted to identify which aspects contribute to consumer life satisfaction. In order to provide additional insights into consumer life satisfaction, this study aimed to identify the relationships among social psychological variables (consciousness of social face, social interaction anxiety, and career anxiety), shopping confidence, and life satisfaction. Shopping confidence in this study relates to confidence for clothing/ accessories. It was hypothesized that social psychological variables influence life satisfaction not only directly but also indirectly through shopping confidence. Data were gathered by surveying university students in Seoul, using convenience sampling. Two hundred eighty six questionnaires were used in the statistical analysis. Factor analysis of consciousness of social face revealed two factors, ``desire to gain face`` and ``fear of losing face``. Factor analysis of social interaction anxiety, shopping confidence, and life satisfaction revealed that these variables were uni-dimensional. Test of the hypothesized path showed that all social psychological variables influenced life satisfaction indirectly through shopping confidence, whereas ``fear of losing face`` of consciousness of social face and career anxiety influenced life satisfaction directly. The results give marketers some understanding of their consumers` life satisfaction in relation to consciousness of social face, social interaction anxiety, career anxiety, and shopping confidence.
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