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논문검색은 역시 페이퍼서치

복식문화연구검색

The Research Journal of the Costume Culture


  • - 주제 : 자연과학분야 > 가정
  • - 성격 : 학술지
  • - 간기: 격월
  • - 국내 등재 : KCI 등재
  • - 해외 등재 : -
  • - ISSN : 1226-0401
  • - 간행물명 변경 사항 :
논문제목
수록 범위 : 24권 6호 (2016)

온라인 패션 쇼핑 시 도전감의 척도 개발 및 타당성 연구

심수인 ( Soo In Shim )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  24권 6호, 2016 pp. 709-724 ( 총 16 pages)
5,600
초록보기
The purpose of this study is to develop a multi-dimensional scale measuring consumers` perceived challenge in shopping fashion products online, and to verify its validity and reliability. Relevant literature is first reviewed to identify possible dimensions of perceived challenge. Next, Study 1 is conducted in order to explore the dimensions empirically and to see whether the dimensions that emerged were consistent with prior findings. A total of 190 responses to an open-ended question was qualitatively analyzed by using content analysis. The findings of Study 1 generate 26 items reflecting four dimensions (i.e., product knowledge, previous experience, website functionality, and product availability), which correspond to the dimensions suggested in literature review. Study 2 is subsequently conducted to refine the items so that the perceived challenge scale establishes cross-validation, convergent validity, discriminant validity, reliability, and predictive validity. A total of 238 responses is quantitatively analyzed by using exploratory factor analysis, confirmatory factor analysis, and structural equation modeling. In the results of Study 2, the perceived challenge scale is found to consist of a total of 16 items reflecting three dimensions: E-commerce Challenge (corresponding to Previous Experience reported in Study 1), Retailer Challenge (corresponding to Website Functionality), and Product Challenge (corresponding to Product Knowledge); all Product Availability items have been eliminated through the item refinement process. Specifically, E-commerce Challenge and Retailer Challenge are found to predict flow, supporting flow theory, while Product Challenge fails to lead to flow significantly. Implications, limitations, and suggestions for future studies are also discussed.

3D 프린터를 이용한 여성용 인대 제작 연구

오설영 ( Seol Young Oh )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  24권 6호, 2016 pp. 725-742 ( 총 18 pages)
5,800
초록보기
In the Korean fashion industry, 3D printing systems are considered as new technology and a new opportunity. With 3D printers, consumers can be manufacturers and individuals can develop businesses with little upfront capital. In this study, a dress form for the typical Korean women`s body shape was developed using 3D technology (3D scanning, 3D modeling, and 3D printing). Ten women with apparel sizes 85-91-160 were selected from 3D body-scan data collected by SizeKorea of 201 women aged 25 to 34 (2010). First, 15 horizontal cross-sections were collected from the 3D scan data of the 10 subjects. Then, inside lines of those cross-sections were drawn at 15-degree intervals, and the lengths were measured. The average of the inside lines was connected to the internal spline curve, and the curves were used as the average cross-sections. The average torso body and the dress form of Korean women were developed into a 3D solid model using a 3D CAD program (Solidworks 2012). An output mockup was printed by the FDM type`s 3D printing system (Bonbot 1200, Bonbot 3-H4) using PLA material. The dimensions comparing the 3D solid modeling to the 3D printed mockup of the dress form were measured, and minor differences were between 0.00cm and 0.40cm. In the future, 3D printing systems are expected to be in use for various personalized dress forms.

Self-observation of the design process

( Jung Soo Lee )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  24권 6호, 2016 pp. 743-755 ( 총 13 pages)
5,300
초록보기
This study aimed to reveal the designer`s creative process in the development of clothing designs. The researcher has taken roles both as a design practitioner and an observer. The full process of design development was concurrently documented while working to solve a specific problem. This included noting down the concept, keywords, and detailed scratch ideas, as well as refining the design by collecting sketches and taking photos. Integrated data from the captured design process were analyzed based on Lamb and Kallal`s apparel design framework, which included problem identification, construction of preliminary ideas, design refinement, prototype development, and evaluation. The functional, expressive, and aesthetic (FEA) criteria of the entire process were thus assessed. Additionally, five professional apparel reviewers evaluated the design project based on FEA criteria. The results showed the processes for identifying targets and intentions, extracting the main elements from sources, developing the major visual concepts, and making final adjustments. Ultimately, this study revealed how a designer manages each stage of the creative design process. Sharing such detailed observations of the design process can help refine the knowledge involved in each stage of the creative process, and provide guidance for instructors in design education.

뷰티 태도 관련 기존 연구의 분석

최지혜 ( Ji Hye Choe ) , 김미영 ( Mi Young Kim )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  24권 6호, 2016 pp. 756-776 ( 총 21 pages)
6,100
초록보기
The concern over beauty is increasing as the importance of appearance is becoming more prominent. Accordingly, the importance of studying beauty is now apparent. The purpose of this study is to analyze existing beauty-related research in order to assess current trends in beauty-related studies. Materials were collected from the master`s theses and academic journals from 1997 through 2016. In addition, 81 beauty-related papers were selected and classified into 3 categories according to their subjects and content. There were 19 hair attitude papers, 52 papers about make-up and skincare, and 10 papers on cosmetic surgery. Each type was divided into detailed themes according to the study theme and its number was grasped. Consequently it was classified into 9 themes about the attitude toward hair and the relevant variable study, 10 themes about the attitude toward hair style and relevant variable study, 24 themes about the make-up attitude and relevant variable study, 28 themes about the skin care attitude and relevant variable study, and 10 themes about the cosmetic surgery attitude and relevant variable study. The results revealed that academic concern about beauty sharply increased starting in 2005. Moreover, we determined that the methodologies used in hair and make-up studies were sound and detailed, while cosmetic surgery studies were more inconsistent and poorly analyzed. Thus cosmetic surgery should be further researched in a more standardized and thorough manner. This review of attitudes toward beauty will serve as a basis for follow-up studies that employ meta-analyses to draw more quantitative conclusions by aggregating many more study results.

쪽 염료의 환원조건에 따른 섬유소 직물의 염색성과 색채특성

신주동 ( Judong Shin ) , 최종명 ( Jongmyoung Choi )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  24권 6호, 2016 pp. 777-787 ( 총 11 pages)
5,100
초록보기
This study was carried out in order to provide useful data for planning fabrics of summer eco-friendly fashion products. The fabrics used in this study were four cellulose fibers: cotton, cotton/mulberry blended, flax, and flax/lyocell blended. Dyeing with natural indigo was carried out under three different reducing conditions (i.e., general, eclectic, and eco-friendly) that have different reducing agent and pH levels, and hydrosulfite and glucose were used as a reducing agent. The dye uptake (K/S value) of fabrics dyed with natural indigo by a reducing condition was the highest at 660nm. Regardless of the fabrics, dye uptake was the highest under the general reducing condition and the lowest under the eco-friendly reducing condition. Under different reducing conditions, the dye uptake of natural indigo fabrics with the maximum absorption wavelength indicated a difference. The colorfastness of cellulose fabrics that were dyed with natural indigo had a rate of 4 to 5 except for rubbing fastness, which indicated good colorfastness. Additionally, natural indigo-dyed cotton and flax fabrics had good antibiosis. When the color characteristics of fabrics dyed with natural indigo were measured, all of the three reducing conditions created purple blue (PB) colors, and the color characteristics of dyed fabrics by reducing condition and fabric showed significant differences.

일상복 겸용의 애슬레저 바이크 웨어 디자인 개발 연구

이달아 ( Dal A Lee ) , 안인숙 ( In-sook Ahn )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  24권 6호, 2016 pp. 788-802 ( 총 15 pages)
5,500
초록보기
Sportswear transforms itself into a new fashion item to satisfy desires for beauty in addition to having functionality and movability for sports activities. Sportswear is not in fashion just temporarily but comes in various forms along with sociocultural phenomenon that put emphasis on well-being and leisure. This research aims to study the needs of the bikers who ride bicycles or cycles has become a popular outdoor activity, and give suggestions for high functional sports design that can satisfy the needs of the highly demanding taste of athletes. To understand the design development direction and design preference, practical consumer needs were derived through a survey analysis on bike wear purchasing satisfaction and actual wearing state by bike riders. For consumer needs analysis, focus group interview, in-depth interview and questionnaire method were used. Based on analysis of those researches, athleisure bike wears appropriate for urban sports activities were categorized into sports, life, fitness and leisure 4 styles for athleisure bike wear design development. It is believed that this study will contribute to in the category expansion of sports wear market and satisfy the consumer demands for functional and specialized casual bike wears as well as fashion factors optimized to life style of modern people.

패션상품 구매의사 결정과정에서의 상품유형별 채널평가가 멀티채널 이용도에 미치는 영향

박성렬 ( Sung Ryul Park ) , 김미숙 ( Mi Sook Kim )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  24권 6호, 2016 pp. 803-816 ( 총 14 pages)
5,400
초록보기
The purposes of this study were to investigate the influences of channel assessments on the usage of multi-channels by product types, and the differences in the usage of multi-channels among product types in buying decision making process for fashion products. Data were collected from 510 consumers in their 20s to 50s with purchasing experiences through multi-channel distribution system and living in Seoul and Kyunggi province; 491 were analyzed after deleting incomplete questionnaires. Factor analysis, multiple regression analysis and one-way ANOVA were used for statistical analysis by using SPSS 18.0. The results were as follows: 5 factors were extracted for channel assessment: utility, accuracy, risk, price benefit and sharing information. Price benefits, utility and sharing information for online channel tended to influence positively on the usage of online channel and online+offline channels. Accuracy and low perceived risk of offline influenced positively on offline and on+offline channel usages. The usage levels of on-line and off-line channels for cosmetics were significantly lower than the usage levels for clothes and accessories on information search, evaluation of alternatives, and purchase stages. Significant differences were also found in the usage levels of multi-channels (on+off-line) on information search and evaluation of alternatives stages. The usage levels of the multi-channels for clothes were the highest followed by those of accessories and cosmetics in order.

코치닐을 활용한 우피의 천연염색

김상률 ( Sangyool Kim )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  24권 6호, 2016 pp. 817-824 ( 총 8 pages)
4,500
초록보기
The introduction of natural dyes into modern dye houses is very promising green chemistry concept that should be popularized more to reduce the dependency of leather dyeing on some toxic and non-biodegradable synthetic dyes. In this study, the properties of dyeing of cochineal on cow leather were evaluated. The proper dyeing conditions were identified with dye uptake (K/S values) depending on the colorant concentration, dyeing duration, dyeing temperature, and dye bath pH. For the proper mordanting conditions, color changes for different mordants were observed as La*b* and H V/C values. Color fastness (light, rubbing, and dry cleaning) was also examined. Additionally, antibacterial properties and UV protection were examined. The results were as follows: The optimized dyeing conditions were 300% o.w.f., 40℃, 40 min., and pH 5. The cow leather color was red in the absence of mordanting, while it was red purple after being mordanted with Al and Cu, and purple mordanted with Fe. The K/S value of cow leathers increased in the order of the dyeing using AlK(SO4)2> CuSO4>FeSO4. The colorfastness to light and rubbing were reduced compared to original (untreated) cow leather. However dry cleaning fastness was very satisfactory, with a 4~5 rating. The dyed and pre-mordanting dyed cow leather showed excellent antibacterial properties.

패션업체 판매원의 자기결정성, 공유가치 및 커뮤니케이션 만족이 직무만족, 조직몰입 및 이직의도에 미치는 영향

주성래 ( Seong-rae Ju ) , 정명선 ( Myung-sun Chung )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  24권 6호, 2016 pp. 825-838 ( 총 14 pages)
5,400
초록보기
The purpose of this study was to empirically examine the effects of salespeople`s self-determination, shared value; and communication satisfaction on their job satisfaction, organizational commitment, and turnover intention in a fashion company. Questionnaires were administered to 475 salespeople who worked in fashion shop at the time of the study. The data was analyzed via factor analysis, correlation analysis, and a structural equation model. The results indicated that self-determination was extracted as autonomy, competence, and relatedness. Only the relatedness of self-determination factors was positively correlated with formal and informal communication satisfaction. In addition, recognizing hared value was positively correlated with formal and informal communication satisfaction; whereas, the practice of shared value was positively correlated with formal, but not informal communication satisfaction. Formal communication satisfaction was significantly correlated with job satisfaction and organizational commitment. Conversely, informal communication satisfaction was significantly correlated with job satisfaction, but was not related to organizational commitment. Finally, job satisfaction was significantly correlated with organizational commitment and negatively correlated with turnover intention. Moreover, organizational commitment was negatively correlated with turnover intention. The implications of this research for human resources management within fashion companies are discussed in the concluding section of this paper.

말레비치의 “Victory Over the Sun”이 현대 패션디자인에 미친 영향 - Martin Margiela를 중심으로 -

박윤정 ( Yoon Jeong Park )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  24권 6호, 2016 pp. 839-853 ( 총 15 pages)
5,500
초록보기
This study proposes that Malevich`s 1913 performance “Victory Over the Sun” was not just Cubo Futurism, but that it produced Suprematism in the early 20th century. “Victory Over the Sun” did away with traditional set and costume design and a call to the Russian avant garde. Therefore, this study analyzes the characteristics of set and the costume design in “Victory Over the Sun”, and considers how it impacted twenty-first century fashion designers like Margiela. The results of the study are as follows: first, Margiela reinterpreted the characteristics of the costumes featured on “Victory Over the Sun” from a cubist perspective and represented geometric spatial structures and mechanical human images through changes in methods and materials. second, he designed costumes by applying to the set and costumes expressed black & white images on “Victory Over the Sun”. and third, Margiela reinterpreted the warrior image using geometric forms and colors in a creative way. Contemporary fashion designers, including Margiela, express their artistic creativity through various representational and materials choices. They want to convey their subjective personality and emotional sensibility to the public by mixing and deforming existing arts like painting, sculpture, and crafts to create new images. Thus, the creative intentions of the latest fashion designers have expanded art of costume design, exemplifying the process by which art is evolves and is made new.
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