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논문검색은 역시 페이퍼서치

복식문화연구검색

The Research Journal of the Costume Culture


  • - 주제 : 자연과학분야 > 가정
  • - 성격 : 학술지
  • - 간기: 격월
  • - 국내 등재 : KCI 등재
  • - 해외 등재 : -
  • - ISSN : 1226-0401
  • - 간행물명 변경 사항 :
논문제목
수록 범위 : 25권 6호 (2017)

Style has no age - Reconstructing age identity on Pinterest -

( Eva Babicheva ) , ( Kyu-hye Lee )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  25권 6호, 2017 pp. 719-740 ( 총 22 pages)
6,200
초록보기
Sociocultural and demographic shifts have resulted in a changing perception of older age. Older women, historically subjected to age-ordering rules of dress, have increasingly refused to be marginalized fashion consumers and have been striving to construct a more positive age identity. Although studies have examined consumers’ negotiation of marginalized identities, age identity has not received much attention as a type of marginalized identity. This study argues that Pinterest acts as a platform for identity work by allowing older women to creatively reconstruct their sense of self by saving images and organizing them into thematic boards. Drawing on symbolic interactionism theory and notions of digital self-presentation, this paper seeks to explore the discursive practices that older women employ on Pinterest to resist ageist fashion discourses. The sample consisted of 15 fashion-oriented Pinterest profiles of older women. Netnographic inquiry was employed first to examine what images were saved and what thematic boards were created. Three analytical frameworks for visual data analysis were integrated to further scrutinize the visual texts within the thematic boards. The analyses revealed three main themes-rejecting age, accepting age, and consuming age. The themes that emerged formed the basis for an age identity reconstruction process whereby women attempted to bridge the existing gap between older age and mainstream fashion discourse.

제주 천연자원 감을 모티브로 한 유ㆍ아동복 텍스타일 디자인 연구

안수민 ( Sumin Ahn ) , 이은주 ( Eunjou Yi )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  25권 6호, 2017 pp. 741-756 ( 총 16 pages)
5,600
초록보기
The natural resources of Jeju are recognized as the new regional image of that clean island. Reflecting these trends, this study is initiated to develop a textile design with the motive of persimmon, a natural resource of Jeju, and to apply it to infant’s and children’s clothes. Its purpose is to highlight the image of persimmon, a traditional dye, as a regional signature for Jeju. Product development procedure included, understanding the use of persimmon for fashion products, analyzing Infants’ and Children’s designer collections over the last three seasons (focused on 2014S/S, 2015S/S, and 2016S/S), and surveying the Children’s Clothes market for persimmon dyeing in Jeju. The conclusion was that, the natural resources of Jeju are highly valuable, and should be applied to textile design and apparel products for children. Utilizing Jeju persimmon was actively studied, but, the market for the Jeju persimmon natural - dyeing products is extremely limited. Moreover, the apparel products for infants and children represent old-fashioned styles, despite their higher prices. Therefore, using the formative characteristics of persimmon for each theme was suggested for development of patterns for textile design. Pattern designs were expressed using textured textile screen-printing, embroidery and applique for infants’ and children’s clothes. In this study, a total of 10 items were prepared as apparel products for infants and children. All items were designed considering mix-and-match, potential, with each other or with regular mass-market products. These results are expected to contribute to highlighting the unique image of Jeju and to help promote fashion culture products.

완벽주의 성향, 자기조절 능력이 지각된 신체왜곡 및 다이어트행동에 미치는 영향

주성래 ( Seong-rae Ju )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  25권 6호, 2017 pp. 757-772 ( 총 16 pages)
5,600
초록보기
Appearance management is a serious issue for adults and young people in Korean society. People of various ages have used diverse means to improve their appearances. This study focused on dieting as an appearance management behavior in female adolescents. Dieting behaviors are not just a means to improve appearance; they may also relate to individuals’ beliefs and self-control. The importance of individual psychological/ personality factors cannot, therefore, be ruled out. Such factors can help explain personality factors explain “what causes a compulsive diet and what factors can alleviate it”. This study reviewed the literature on perfectionism and self-control as individual personality factors, and empirically examined the effects of these variables on perceived body distortion and dieting behaviors. We performed a structural equation model analysis to verify our hypothesis. The results are as follows: we found perfectionism to be positively related to perceived body distortion and dieting behaviors; we also found self-control to be negatively related to perceived body distortion though unrelated to dieting behaviors; finally, our analysis identified a relationship between perceived body distortion and dieting behaviors. These results indicate that perfectionism and self-control should be considered when conducting guidance and counseling sessions on issues related to dieting behaviors for adolescent’ appearance management. This paper concludes by discussing the study’s implications and limitations.

동대문 소재 상권의 패션 트렌드 수용 정도와 소재 기획

고혜숙 ( Hyesook Ko ) , 이지연 ( Jiyeon Lee ) , 이연희 ( Younhee Lee )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  25권 6호, 2017 pp. 773-786 ( 총 14 pages)
5,400
초록보기
The current study aims to analyze the process of fabric production planning in Dongdaemun Market, which is a successful model case industrial integration in South Korea. We followed the changes in perception among fabric experts, regarding their recognition of fashion trends, and the following planning and process of fabric production. We used the purpose sampling method to select participants for interview in the Dongdaemun Market, then we carried out one-to-one interviews. Our analysis reveals 4 points of importance. First, the fabric planning stage either employed the trend book swatch, or simply reused the model fabrics already available. Even though the experts felt the need to accept the latest fashion trends, very few considered the trends as positive influences in fabric planning. Whereas trend was a key element in identifying the flow of the fashion industry, there were obstacles in carrying out the study. Second, experts frequently participated in domestic fabric seminars, but not in textile exhibitions. Third, domestic and overseas market research has been performed typically at department stores, and typically at Japan. Fourth, the influx of Chinese fabrics has both positive and negative influences, such as low price, and low reliability. In conclusion, experts were less amenable to accepting the latest fashion trends. pre-requisites in real life to meet the use of the current trend of each company. More studies on the Dongdaemun Market from perspectives of practitioners are warranted.

Rei Kawakubo Collection에 나타난 아방가르드 표현 특성 - Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garcons: Art of the in-between를 중심으로 -

신하람 ( Haram Shin ) , 염미선 ( Misun Yum )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  25권 6호, 2017 pp. 787-803 ( 총 17 pages)
5,700
초록보기
The purpose of this study is to reestablish the innovative and experimental designs of Rei Kawakubo by considering and analyzing the flow on the avant-garde nature of her design collection from 1981 to 2017. Design trends such as the art trend, silhouette, color, and expressive technique showcased in Rei Kawakubo’s collection from 1981 spring/summer to 2017 spring/summer were examined through precedent studies, books, internet materials, and the avant-garde expressive nature of her designs appearing in modern fashion. Additionally, this study considers the definition of avant- garde and analyzes the expressive nature of Rei Kawakubo’s 137 works from the Comme des Garcons collection, exhibited in New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art. As a result of this examination, the avant-garde expressive nature seen in modern fashion was classified into the following themes: historicity, de-structure, exaggeration, intermixture, and surrealism. As a result of reclassifying these characteristics according to historical flow, the historicty, intermixture, and de-structure appeared in the 1980s, while intermixture, exaggeration, and de-structure appeared in the 1990s. More recently, historicity, intermixture, and de-structure appeared in the 2000s, and intermixture, de-structure, exaggeration, and surrealism appeared in the 2010s. The present study is significant in providing theoretical material for the more innovative and various design development in diverse domains while helping to define and understand the avant-garde expression through Rei Kawakubo’s collection.

20~30대 남성의 화장품 관여유형에 따른 정보탐색과 구매행동특성

홍혜림 ( Hye Rim Hong ) , 백경진 ( Kyoungjin Baek )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  25권 6호, 2017 pp. 804-818 ( 총 15 pages)
5,500
초록보기
The purpose of this study was to examine the differences of the information searches and purchasing behavior Korean men in their 20s and 30s, focusing on cosmetic involvement. Research methods consisted of qualitative and quantitative approaches. For the qualitative approach, in-depth interviews and participant observations were conducted to investigate male customers' cosmetic characteristics in information searches and purchasing behavior. Then, the study conducted a quantitative study methodology based on the questionnaires from the in-depth interviews, participant observations, and literature review. The study surveyed 340 Korean men in their 20s and 30s. The cosmetic involvement of the target group was classified into the amusing high-involvement group, the rational low-involvement group, and the obligatory high-involvement group. The results from this study indicated that the groups of male customers classified by cosmetic involvement showed statistically significant differences in terms of information searches and purchasing behaviors. Especially, the obligatory high-involvement group generally displayed high-involvement traits likewise the amusing highinvolvement, was more similar to the rational low-involvement group regarding cost effectiveness than the obligatory high-involvement group. Moreover, the classifications of men generally had different characteristics of cosmetic purchasing behavior and information searches than women. This study has a distinctive significance compared with other studies in discovering differences of cosmetic purchasing behaviors of Korean men in their 20s and 30s’ cosmetic involvement groups classified using qualitative and quantitative approaches.

스마트폰 화면으로 인지되는 직물의 색상과 재질감 선호도 및 구매의도 비교 - 관능실험 방법을 중심으로 -

김태진 ( Taejin Kim ) , 상정선 ( Jeong Seon Sang ) , 박명자 ( Myung-ja Park )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  25권 6호, 2017 pp. 819-830 ( 총 12 pages)
5,200
초록보기
This study aims to gather precise information on the real fabric color and texture, and purchasing intention of mobile shoppers buying clothes. Eighty volunteers participated in the sensory test on three smartphones with four colors and two fabricssmooth taffeta and hairy doeskin. This study carried out the posteriori test using the one-way ANOVA and Duncan test by SPSS21.0. In the analysis’ results of color preference, there were no differences among the four colors of taffeta between the smartphones, but different preferences between the red and yellow doeskin exist. In the case of the Samsung phone, which has an immense color distortion, the red fabric has a low color preference. In contrast, on the Apple phone yellow fabric had the highest preference because of its brightness. The Apple phone also has the highest purchasing intention of yellow colored taffeta, which is similar to the color preference results, although the real fabric has the opposite result. For doeskin, the real red and blue colored fabric has the highest purchasing intention. The Samsung phone has the biggest color mismatch with the real fabric. It also has the lowest purchasing intention of red taffeta fabric, while the LG phone has the lowest purchasing intention of blue fabric. Using the paired comparison method of the similarity between ‘real’ fabrics and the mobile version of fabric colors has a low similarity on all four colors of taffeta and doeskin fabrics. Therefore it can be concluded that phones do not represent the ‘real’ fabric color.

기능성 화장품의 온라인 사용 후기 신뢰도가 브랜드 선호도, 광고 신뢰도 및 구매의도에 미치는 영향 - 자외선 차단제의 긍정적 사용 후기를 중심으로 -

박지혜 ( Ji Hye Park ) , 김미숙 ( Mi Sook Kim ) , 황춘섭 ( Choon Sup Hwang )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  25권 6호, 2017 pp. 831-846 ( 총 16 pages)
5,600
초록보기
Considering that the effectiveness of ads varies according to the credibility of consumers, it is necessary to establish data regarding consumer credibility in relation to online reviews. To conduct a successful study on the marketing strategies of online reviews, it is also necessary to analyze the relationship between credibility and the various factors that influence the purchase intentions of consumers. Therefore, this study attempted to examine the relationship between consumer trust of on-line reviews, brand preference, ads credibility, and purchase intentions in relation to cosmetics. The study was conducted through a normative descriptive survey method using stimuli and a self-administered questionnaire. Analysis of the structural equation model was conducted for the data analysis. The results revealed that consumer reliance on online reviews of cosmetics influences brand preference, credibility of brand ads and purchase intentions. The results also revealed that consumers’ on-line reviews, brand preference, and trust of brand ads are important factors for increasing the purchase intentions. The mediation effect of brand preference and brands’ ads credibility were found in the process where on-line reviews exercise an influence on the purchase intentions. It was also found that brand preference has a stronger influence on purchase intention than credibility of brand ads. It was discovered that the credibility of on-line reviews directly influences purchase intentions more than indirectly influences. Considering the results of this study, programs that encourage customers to post on-line reviews, and strategies to promote brand preference by targeting groups that exhibit high trust in online reviews would be recommended.

충남 서산 이(李) 어모장군 부부 합장묘 출토복식의 연대추정

금종숙 ( Jong-suk Keum )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  25권 6호, 2017 pp. 847-861 ( 총 15 pages)
5,500
초록보기
As the excavated costumes from the unknown tomb of the Joseon Dynasty were unearthed, estimating the age of the costumes became very important. This research investigat and estimates the age of the excavated costumes from Couple`s Tomb for Lee General in Seosan, Chung-nam. By inspecting and analyzing the costumes, the features can be compared with other similar costumes that have been excavated from other tombs. The result of this study is as follows: First, the period with dopo, cheolrik, jungchimak, and baji for females among the relics of General Lee can be estimated. For dopo, there are morphometric features such as the shape of moo; for cheolrik, there is a ratio of top and bottom; for jungchimak, there is a ratio of width of arm and skit and a ratio of side tim, total length, etc. By comparing relics of same period, it can be estimated to be from the late 16 century around the Japanese invasion of Korea to the early 17 century. Second, the period with jangui and jeogori among the relics of Couple's Tomb for General Lee can be estimated. By comparing jangui with the arm and width of sleeves, and by comparing jeogori and the shape of the collar, arm, length, etc., with other relics identical to the period, it can be estimated to be from the late 16 century around the Japanese invasion of Korea, which is a similar date to the one with the husband to the early 17 century.

알렉산더 왕 컬렉션에 나타난 애슬레저 룩의 특성

박정희 ( Jung Hee Park ) , 이연희 ( Younhee Lee )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  25권 6호, 2017 pp. 862-879 ( 총 18 pages)
5,800
초록보기
The purpose of this study is to analyze Alexander Wang’s collections representing the athleisure look, and suggest a multilateral direction for fashion design based on the data. The present study examines literature, journals, and mass media to define the athleisure look and understand the background of its emergence, and assess its key design characteristics. The collections examined are from 2007 fall/winter to 2017 spring/summer, and T by Alexander Wang from 2011 spring/summer to 2016 fall/ winter. A total of 446 photos were collected and verified by a group of experts. The characteristics of the athleisure look in Alexander Wang’s collections were described by the following themes: dynamism (39.46%), unexpectedness (34.30%), sensuality (14.57%), and resistance (11.65%). Results revealed a number of findings: First, regarding the sensuality of the athleisure look found in Alexander Wang’s collections, it was found to exhibit the lines of the human body and highlight sexiness and healthy beauty - with either direct or indirect body exposure. Second, the concept of dynamism is the most frequently seen - utilizing items with a comfortable or loose fit or materials that are flexible to enhance activity. Third, resistance appears as a specific style using aggressive and rough decorations. Alexander Wang’s signature color, black, appears often, and showcases resistance through black clothing and fashion. Fourth, the unexpectedness of the athleisure look found in Alexander Wang’s collections creates its own uniqueness with playful expressions made by various materials’ mixed and matched or made visually fun.
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