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논문검색은 역시 페이퍼서치

복식문화연구검색

The Research Journal of the Costume Culture


  • - 주제 : 자연과학분야 > 가정
  • - 성격 : 학술지
  • - 간기: 격월
  • - 국내 등재 : KCI 등재
  • - 해외 등재 : -
  • - ISSN : 1226-0401
  • - 간행물명 변경 사항 :
논문제목
수록 범위 : 28권 5호 (2020)

초현실주의 표현 기법을 활용한 현대적 치파오 디자인 개발

임염방 ( Yanfang Lin ) , 장호 ( Hao Zhang ) , 이연희 ( Younhee Lee )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  28권 5호, 2020 pp. 573-590 ( 총 18 pages)
5,800
초록보기
The purpose of this study was to develop contemporary Qipao design that emphasized creative feminine beauty with a unique sense beyond the concept of traditional Qipao design. This would be achieved using the expressive technique of human liberation from the oppression of the unconscious world a supported by surrealism. Using existing literature and previous research, surrealist expression technique used in fashion were investigated and analyzed. The results are as follows. First, the possibility of new and original design beyond existing surrealistic Qipao design was demonstrated through various realistic surrealism expression techniques, such as dépaysement, objet, and trompe-l’oeil techniques. This occurred by exploring various unconscious world out of fixed ideas and through expression techniques of surrealistic fashion such as imagery of body parts, metaphorical expression of objects, and position deformation and illusion. Second, Qipao design that combined objet and attempted ordinary escape by combining isolated body parts (such as hands, eyes, and lips) within the composition combine with surrealistic expression enabled various and fun surrealistic fashion designs to emerge. Third, the metaphor of surreal lips and eyes (mainly used in works of this study) presented a unique and extraordinary combination of images in accessories and partial design that used the dépaysement technique. Thus, it was possible to expand surrealistic expression by including LED wire.

25-49세 여성의 Body Mass Index 수준에 따른 소비자 특성과 신체만족도 및 자아존중감이 다이어트 관여도에 미치는 영향

정수목 ( Su-mok Jeong ) , 여은아 ( Eunah Yoh )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  28권 5호, 2020 pp. 591-606 ( 총 16 pages)
5,600
초록보기
The aim of this study is to explore diverse characteristics of females aged 25 to 49 years grouped according to Body Mass Index(BMI), and to investigate the effect of body satisfaction and self-esteem on involvement in dieting within each BMI group. In total, 549 females who participated in an online survey were divided into groups based on BMI(underweight, normal, and overweight). Results demonstrated three key factors, as follows. First, differences were identified among BMI groups according to demographic characteristics(age, household income, and marital status), although no difference according to education level was found. Second, differences according to BMI groups were found in body satisfaction and involvement in dieting, whereas were not found in self-esteem. Third, model testing for each BMI group showed, a positive correlation between body satisfaction and self-esteem in all three groups. However, there was a difference in causal relationships among variable across BMI groups. Body satisfaction negatively affected and self-esteem positively affected involvement in dieting for the underweight and normal groups, whereas there was no causal relationship between variables in the overweight group. Based on these results, basic information of groups segmented by the level of BMI was obtained, which could be used for both academic and practical implications.

목판 교환 방법을 활용한 다색 협힐 제작기법에 관한 연구

이정은 ( Jungeun Lee ) , 스가노켄이치 ( Kenichi Sugano )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  28권 5호, 2020 pp. 607-620 ( 총 14 pages)
5,400
초록보기
The aim of this study is to define the new expressive techniques for multicolored clamp resist (hyuphill) dyeing, based on empirical verification on relics that are estimated to be dyed by the exchange of more than two wood blocks: a previously undiscovered technique. Clamp resist dyeing (assumed to be made by exchanging wood blocks) have uneven resist printing lines or cloudy gradation. These are reproduced as follows: first, they have uneven contour lines, particularly with the color blue. It is possible to exchange wood blocks separately on patterns with uneven resist printing lines, and it has been verified that the exchange of wood blocks makes these irregular resist printing lines. It has also been verified that exchanging the wood blocks according to the gradation (to emphasize the cubic effect on the patterns) yields clamp resist dyeing with no resist printing lines but with cloudy gradations that have accented borders. This study provides basic information that enables methods of multicolored clamp resist dyeing through wood block exchange to be deduced (something that has not been attempted for a long time). Thus, the revival of the modern Korean dyeing culture based on the conservation and perseverance of the traditional dyeing techniques can be achieved.

럭셔리 브랜드 커뮤니티에서 고객 인게이지먼트가 중국 소비자의 구매의도 및 브랜드 태도에 미치는 영향

( Liu Danyang ) , 김효정 ( Hyojung Kim ) , 박민정 ( Minjung Park )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  28권 5호, 2020 pp. 621-638 ( 총 18 pages)
5,800
초록보기
Luxury companies are striving to improve their communication with customers while paying attention to online promotion and marketing activities. As companies interact with customers in luxury brand communities via various channels, they yield consumers higher value throughout the effective consumption process. In addition, this connection enhances customers’ understanding of the company, making it easier for companies to acquire empathy from customers. This study aims to analyze the value factors that affect luxury brand community members’ purchase intention and brand attitude. This study utilizes online survey results of four hundred prestige brand community users in China. The results reveal the positive effects of customer engagement on customer psychological empowerment and flow, the positive impacts of customer psychological empowerment and flow on community identity and brand attachment, the positive effects of community identity on purchase intentions, and the positive effects of brand attachment on purchase intentions and brand attitude. Furthermore, the results show that community types and fashion involvement partially moderate customer engagement. This study provides theoretical suggestions for relationship marketing in the luxury brand community environment. Last, this study presents practical implications that companies could utilize to create an emotional connection with their community members, resulting in an increase of customer support.

사이즈 코리아 인체 측정 자료에 근거한 30~40대 플러스 사이즈 남성의 체형 특성 및 체형

이하나 ( Hana Lee )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  28권 5호, 2020 pp. 639-651 ( 총 13 pages)
5,300
초록보기
This study utilized data to classify and characterize the body types of plus-size adult men aged in their 30s and 40s. Diversity is an important factor in the era of inclusive design, and discussion about size diversity to include the plus size should be accommodated. Data from 493 adult men classified as obese (with a World Health Organization criterion ≥25 BMI) were used for the analysis. The results of the study are as follows. Six independent factors were extracted using factor analysis for cluster analysis, which were then classified into five types. Type 1 (29.01%) was identified as body type I with the smallest degree of obesity. Type 2 (15.4%) was identified as body type Y with wide shoulders and a thin waist. Type 3 (14.2%) was the largest body volume (body type O), while the fourth (19.27%) identified as body type H has a large height and upper body. Lastly, type 5 (22.11%) has a long lower body and a slim abdomen, referred to as body type X. This study presents a basis for the development of various clothing sizes utilizing the body shape characteristics of plus-size men in their 30s and 40s. Follow-up research is needed to develop patterns for plus size men and to design various products.

영국 지속가능한 패션연구센터(CSF)의 연구사례를 통한 지속가능 패션연구 동향

이혜림 ( Hyerim Lee ) , 마진주 ( Jin Joo Ma )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  28권 5호, 2020 pp. 652-668 ( 총 17 pages)
5,700
초록보기
The purpose of this study was to analyze trends in sustainable fashion research and to guide its the development by examining previous research projects conducted by the UK Centre for Sustainable Fashion. A literature review and case studies were conducted from which the following results were identified. It was shown that the CSF has cooperated with fashion, arts and technology businesses and other external organizations. The CSF has contributed to improving the economic durability of the fashion industry, the convergence of both local and the international fashion communities, and the development of cultural sustainability. Moreover, it incorporates various academic fields into its research and has developed advanced researching methods for sustainable fashion. The CSF has embraced the new perspectives by utilizing student ideas for the development of sustainable fashion. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, the CSF studied the sustainability of fashion from a more organic perspective through multidisciplinary research. Second, it has expanded the possibility of sustainable fashion research through research formats, research fields and research operations. Finally, it has evoked values and responsibilities that the fashion industry should pursue in modern society and has become an exemplary case of sustainable fashion research, providing creative studies for sustainable fashion research in the future.

천연염료를 이용한 양모 직물의 심색 재현성에 대한 연구

김미경 ( Mi Kyung Kim ) , 김태미 ( Taemi Kim )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  28권 5호, 2020 pp. 669-676 ( 총 8 pages)
4,500
초록보기
The purpose of this research was to revive the bathochromic effects of wool fabrics by using natural dyestuffs with minimum heavy metallic mordants. The natural dyestuffs used in this research were the indigo plant, Phellodendron amurense, and Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 1 was pre-dyed five times with indigo. Sample no. 2 was pre-dyed five times with indigo and then once dyed with Phellodendron amurense. Following the same method as sample no. 2 with an additional Phellodendron, Sample no. 3 consisted of a pre-dye five times with indigo and twice with Phellodendron amurense. Sample no. 4 was pre-dyed six times with indigo and then once dyed with Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 5 followed the same method as no. 4 with an additional dye of Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 6 was pre-dyed five times with indigo and then once dyed with Phellodendron amurense and once dyed with Caesalpinia sappan. The results were as follows: first, all samples showed deeper colors. Second, according to the results of the surface K/S measurement, the surface K/S of wool fabrics was >20. Third, the results of lightfastness measurement showed superiority over grade 4 in samples no. 1, 2, 3, 5, and 6. However, sample no. 4 was grade 3. In the colorfastness to washing measurement, sample no. 2 showed greater superiority than grade 3―4, while samples no. 1 and 3 were grade 3. In addition, the colorfastness to dry cleaning for all samples was satisfactory or excellent by more than grade 3.

한국복식 디자인의 연구동향에 관한 고찰 - <복식>과 <한복문화> 학술지를 중심으로 -

한민재 ( Minjae Han ) , 이연희 ( Younhee Lee )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  28권 5호, 2020 pp. 677-691 ( 총 15 pages)
5,500
초록보기
A lot of work has been done on the topic of Korean traditional costume. In spite of the amount of the work, however, not much work has appeared that summarizes the overall research trend in such a way that we gain insights into the future direction of the Korean traditional costume field. This study aims to work out an analysis of the research trend that may shed light on the current status of the field and also on the things that have to be done to further develop the Korean costume design field. The analysis reported in this work is based on the articles that appeared in two journals: Journal of the Korean Society of Costume published by the Korean Society of Costume (2,661 articles from the year 1977 to 2019) and Journal of Korean Traditional Costume published by the Society of Korean Traditional Costume (762 articles from the year 1998 to 2019). The result of the analysis shows that only a very small amount of work is devoted to actual designing of Korean traditional costume, and this has to change to globalize Korean traditional fashion and draw worldwide attention to it. So more work is needed particularly on actual designing of Korean traditional costume. This does not mean that we simply have to maintain tradition and replicate the original designs, but we have to endeavor to work out novel designs by, for instance, creative destruction and restructuring, maintaining the essence of the tradition of Korean costume.

E-girl과 E-boy 패션 이미지에 나타난 디지털 페르소나

어경진 ( Kyung Jin Uh )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  28권 5호, 2020 pp. 692-704 ( 총 13 pages)
5,300
초록보기
The aim of this study is to select MLMA and Noen Eubanks as representatives of Gen Z’s unique subculture ‘E-girl’ and ‘E-boy’ to analyze fashion images and determine their meaning through the perspective of persona. To conduct this study, a literature review and case studies were combined and fashion images of E-girl and E-boy appearing on social media were analyzed to identify the personas they expressed. A case study of MLMA and Noen Eubanks’ Instagram and TikTok account posts showed that grotesque, kitsch, and gender-related images stand out. The digital personae demonstrated by E-girl and E-boy fashion images were demonstrated to be a strange persona that reject perfect beauty and a playful persona escaping from reality and anxiety. Lastly persona of individual identity was shown to be formed. This study provides a basis for understanding and interpreting Gen Z’s culture and aesthetics that will lead to future trends. Based on this study, I hope that various studies on E-girl and E-boy apparel will be conducted, and that by understanding the importance of E-girl and E-boy culture for Gen Z (which is paying attention to fashion trends), this can be used as a marketing strategy to consider their characteristics, with data used to inform design development.

Development of a haptic communication system for fashion image experience in a virtual environment

( Jongsun Kim ) , ( Dongsoo Choi ) , ( Sangyoun Kim ) , ( Jisoo Ha )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  28권 5호, 2020 pp. 705-718 ( 총 14 pages)
5,400
초록보기
The goal of this study was to develop a haptic communication system that can convey the tactile sensation of fashion materials in a virtual environment. In addition, the effectiveness and how realistically the virtual fabric image of this system delivers the tactile sensation of actual fabric was verified. First, a literature review was conducted through which the tactile attributes of fashion materials were defined that would be implemented in the haptic communication system. Then, a questionnaire for evaluating the tactile attributes of fashion materials was developed. Next, a haptic communication system was designed to convey fashion image experiences in a virtual environment, from which a haptic rendering model was suggested. The effectiveness of the haptic communication system was evaluated by verifying user experiences with questions developed through a user evaluation experiment. The validity of the evaluation questions pertaining to the tactile attributes and the effects of the haptic communication system were verified. Factor analysis was conducted to verify the evaluation of the tactile sense attributes of the fashion material, which identified density, thickness, and elasticity of the material as key factors. As a result of comparisons between the tactile sense through haptic characteristics and through touching, it was observed that regarding density and thickness, tactile sense experience led to greater perceived reality, while this was not the case for elasticity.
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