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논문검색은 역시 페이퍼서치

복식문화연구검색

The Research Journal of the Costume Culture


  • - 주제 : 자연과학분야 > 가정
  • - 성격 : 학술지
  • - 간기: 격월
  • - 국내 등재 : KCI 등재
  • - 해외 등재 : -
  • - ISSN : 1226-0401
  • - 간행물명 변경 사항 :
논문제목
수록 범위 : 29권 4호 (2021)

19세기 초반 코르셋 착용에 따른 인체 치수와 실루엣 변화 사례연구

한유정 ( Yoo Jeong Hahn ) , 천종숙 ( Jong Suk Chun ) , 서동애 ( Dong Ae Suh ) , 오설영 ( Seol Young Oh )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  29권 4호, 2021 pp. 471-487 ( 총 17 pages)
5,700
초록보기
The purpose of this study was to analyze changes to body measurements and silhouettes after wearing an early 19th century women’s corset. Two types of corsets were tested. Changes in body size and silhouette were compared based on the levels of tightening strength of the corset. The tightening strength was adjusted in 4 steps by making the length of back fastening string 10-40 cm shorter than the standard. The silhouette was compared with the front silhouette and the side silhouette. The results were as follows. After wearing the experimental 19th century corsets, the chest circumference and front interscye length increased. However, the chest circumference did not increase proportionally to the tightening strength. The underbust circumference, waist circumference, and back interscye length also decreased. The waist width was decreased to create a slim front silhouette. The change in the body silhouette differed depending on the style of the experimental corset. The experimental corset made with the six-piece torso pattern changed the posture so that the shoulders were pulled back and the chest was pushed forward. The experimental corset with the side bodice pattern resulted in the subject’s shoulders reclining backward and the chest and abdomen extending forward. The results of this study show that women’s body sizes and silhouettes could be changed by wearing the early 19th century corsets, but the changes in body size and silhouette vary depending on the wearer's individual body type or corset style.

글로벌 패션산업에 나타난 패션 민주화의 특성과 패션 민주주의

석효정 ( Hyojung Suk )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  29권 4호, 2021 pp. 488-504 ( 총 17 pages)
5,700
초록보기
This article examined the historical evolution of changes in the democratization of fashion, identified its characteristics, and defined ‘fashionocracy - fashion democracy’- by analyzing various phenomena in the global fashion industry. This research will expand the field of fashion research and spark academic debates about fashion democracy. The democratization of fashion can be summarized in five periods; birth, introduction, early growth, growth, and maturity. The characteristics of the democratization of fashion include individual autonomy, accessibility that many people can access and enjoy, and diversity. According to the principles of democracy- “of the people, for the people, by the people” - which are based on freedom and equality, we have achieved fashion of the people and for the people so far. Furthermore, social media has shifted the balance of power to influencers and bloggers; as such, the masses who have consumed and enjoyed fashion democratization are becoming producers and promoters by actively participating in the process of making fashion, creating a new era of fashion democracy (fashionocracy): - by the people. Ultimately, fashionocracy consists of the ‘6P’s’ ; people (active and productive consumers), planet (society and environmental sustainability), products (genderless, ageless, inclusive), price (reasonable), place (multi-channel distribution, virtual spaces), and promotion (horizontal).

인터넷 쇼핑환경에서의 소비자 혼란과 쇼핑 피로감이 부정적 구매행동에 미치는 영향

김종욱 ( Jong-ouk Kim )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  29권 4호, 2021 pp. 505-521 ( 총 17 pages)
5,700
초록보기
This study analyzed the effects of consumer confusion on shopping fatigue and negative purchasing behaviors in an internet shopping environment. Further, the effects of shopping fatigue on negative purchasing behaviors were analyzed. The survey was conducted among consumers in their 20s and 40s in the Seoul metropolitan area who had experience of purchasing fashion products through internet shopping. A total of 392 questionnaire were analysis, with frequency, reliability, factor, correlation, and regression analysis completed using the SPSS statistics program. The results of the study showed that consumer confusion and shopping fatigue in internet shopping environment affected negative purchasing behaviors. First, consumer confusion comprised overload confusion, similarity confusion, and ambiguity confusion. It was found that overload confusion and similarity confusion significantly affected shopping fatigue. Second, shopping fatigue significantly affected negative purchasing behaviors, and an increased level of shopping fatigue result in, increased purchase delay and non-purchase behavior. Third, consumer confusion (overload confusion, similarity confusion, ambiguity confusion) significantly affected purchase delay behavior, while similarity confusion and ambiguity confusion significantly affected non-purchasing behavior. These results will provide useful data for e-CRM and marketing directions of internet companies and will contribute to rational decision-making of internet consumers and improve the quality of consumer life.

프랙탈 조형특성을 적용한 니트웨어 디자인

이윤미 ( Yoon Mee Lee )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  29권 4호, 2021 pp. 522-537 ( 총 16 pages)
5,600
초록보기
The purpose of this study is to develop a knitwear design with the potential for practical use through a combination of science and design by examining the concept and formative characteristics of fractal geometry and applying them to the development of 3D virtual clothing knitwear design. This study produced five main conclusions. First, the sub-concepts of “Repeatability,” “Scale variability,” and “complexity,” which are based on self-similarity, appear together with simple regularity in the fractal formative characteristics shown in fashion design. Second, fashion fields apply fractal geometry in three-dimensional surface textures and optical textile patterns as a method of expression. Third, it was confirmed that various expressions can be created with fractal patterns by using the SDS-ONE APEX 3-4 design system; moreover, fractal patterns are a suitable design source for the development of Jacquard knitwear patterns. Fourth, in the development of knitted jacquard fractal patterns, by arranging the patterns in perspective, the effect of emphasizing or reducing the human body by optical illusion was shown. Fifth, a knit Jacquard structure with a pattern that exhibits fractal modeling characteristics and applying it to a 3D virtual clothing sample design reduces the time required for sample production while expanding the knit design’s expression area and reducing costs. Thus, the clothing sample confirmed the effectiveness of practical knitwear design development.

토픽 모델링을 이용한 지속가능패션 연구 동향 분석

이하나 ( Hana Lee )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  29권 4호, 2021 pp. 538-553 ( 총 16 pages)
5,600
초록보기
As interest in the sustainable fashion industry continues to increase along with climate issues, it is necessary to identify research trends in sustainable fashion and seek new development directions. Therefore, this study aims to analyze research trends on sustainable fashion. For this purpose, related papers were collected from the KCI (Korean Citation Index) and Scopus, and 340 articles were used for the study. The collected data went through data transformation, data preprocessing, topic modeling analysis, core topic derivation, and visualization through a Python algorithm. A total of eight topics were obtained from the comprehensive analysis: consumer clothing consumption behavior and environment, upcycle product development, product types by environmental approach, ESG business activities, materials and material development, process-based approach, lifestyle and consumer experience, and brand strategy. Topics were related to consumption, production, and education of sustainable fashion, respectively. KCI analysis results and Scopus analysis results derived eight topics but showed differences from the comprehensive analysis results. This study provides primary data for exploring various themes of sustainable fashion. It is significant in that the data were analyzed based on probability using a research method that excluded the subjective value of the researcher. It is recommended that follow-up studies be conducted to examine social trends.
5,800
초록보기
The purpose of this study is to investigate the mediating effect of trust when a media broadcaster (such as a disc jockey [DJ]) acting as an information source and the content they provide during live commerce streaming affect acceptance intention. Live commerce is increasing rapidly, offering a new fashion distribution channel by supplementing possible shortcomings of existing online shopping. Data was collected for the empirical study from female consumers in their 20s who actively accepted fashion technology. Statistical analysis of the data was conducted using IBM SPSS Macro Process 3.5. First, the reliability and validity of the variables for information source characteristics, content informativeness, trust, and acceptance intention were verified, and each variable was confirmed as a single factor. Bootstrap analysis was performed using Macro Process Model 4 to reveal the effects of information source characteristics and content informativeness on acceptance intention. As a result of analyzing the mediating effect for each path model with trust as a parameter, it was found that both the direct and indirect effects of the mediating path were significant. This result means that the characteristics of information sources and content informativeness are partially mediated by trust. Therefore, to promote consumer behavior in a live commerce shopping environment, it is necessary to enhance trust. This can be achieved by a media broadcaster with fashion expertise to increase the perception of the attractiveness of the information source and to improve the usefulness of the fashion information being delivered.

문화적 지속가능성의 리디자인 패션 연구 - 남성 한복을 이용한 여성복 개발 -

곽가빈 ( Ga Bin Gwak ) , 서영임 ( Young Im Seo ) , 김세진 ( Sejin Kim )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  29권 4호, 2021 pp. 572-584 ( 총 13 pages)
5,300
초록보기
The emergence of environmental and social issues has led to global discussions for the realization of sustainable development. The purpose of this study is to propose a method of sustainable fashion design using waste Hanbok, focusing on men's Hanbok with cultural values. The study utilizes literature research and fashion design development. From the literature study, reform was judged to be a higher concept encompassing reduction, recycling, and upcycling. Reduction is a design method through removal, and recycling design transforms from its original form into a completely different product. Upcycling design focuses on improvement and change in functionality. Accordingly, nine redesigns using men’s Hanbok were developed from which three were produced. Consequently, the reduction design demonstrated a small range of variation without changing the item, and cultural sustainability was confirmed through the design that removed the components and recombined the Hanbok. Second, recycling redesign can be reconstituted into a different item. Third, upcycling enables various designs through module assembly, which prolongs the lifespan of the product and confirms its value as a raw material for waste Hanbok. This study is meaningful in realizing sustainable fashion and suggesting practical measures for the sustainability of Korean traditional culture and creative fashion design planning.

중국 소수민족 묘족(苗族) 복식과 황평 납염 특성을 활용한 패션디자인

용루루 ( Lulu Long ) , 이연희 ( Younhee Lee )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  29권 4호, 2021 pp. 585-602 ( 총 18 pages)
5,800
초록보기
The purpose of this study is twofold: First, to develop new sustainable design methods (aligned with ethnic elements and traditional culture) combined with three-dimensional digital clothing technology throughout the design process, which can be presented as guideline materials for various fashion designs to be developed in contemporary sensibilities. Second, it is the intention to produce creative fashion designs by incorporating the characteristics and methods of Miao’s Huangping batik dyeing technique and to present various possibilities in the fashion design field. The overall design characteristics sought by Miao minority are in line with the complex terrain and the ecological and climatic conditions. Miaoist batik dyeing (registered as part of Chinese national intangible cultural heritage) features unique production methods and patterns. The study results are as follows. First, this attempt has enabled understanding of the national costume culture as Chinese Miao’s traditional cultural heritage to be promoted, while the direction of contemporary design development using traditional elements has been presented. Second, the study demonstrated new and innovative expressions and styles relying on three-dimensional digital contouring technology and identified the possibility of developing various designs. Third, it was confirmed that the dyed batik pattern design created by the three-dimensional digital contouring technology could be recombined or expanded as digital printing to express the traditional ethnic designs in a practical manner utilizing digital printing techniques based on traditional characteristics.

인스타그램에 나타난 멀티 페르소나 패션이미지에 관한 연구 - “부캐” 사례를 중심으로 -

김종선 ( Jongsun Kim )
복식문화학회|복식문화연구  29권 4호, 2021 pp. 603-615 ( 총 13 pages)
5,300
초록보기
The aim of this study was to analyze the semantic network structure of keywords and the visual composition of images extracted from Instagram in relation to the multi-persona phenomenon with in fashion imagery, which has recently been attracting attention. To this end, the concept of a ‘secondary character’, which forms a separate identity from a ‘main character’ on various social media platforms as well as on the airwaves, was considered as the spread of multi-persona and #SecondaryCharacter on Instagram was investigated. 3,801 keywords were collected after crawling the data using Python and morphological analysis was undertaken using KoNLP. The semantic network structure was then examined by conducting a CONCOR analysis using UCINET and Netdraw to determine the top 50 keywords. The results were then classified into a total of 6 clusters. In accordance with the meaning and context of the keywords included in each cluster, group names were assigned : virtual characters, relationship with the main character, hobbies, daily record, N-job person, media and marketing. Image analysis considered the technical, compositional, and social styles of the media based on Gillian Rose’s visual analysis method. The results determined that Instagram uses fashion images that virtualize one's face to produce multi-persona representation s that show various occupations, describe different types of hobbies, and depict situations pertaining to various social roles.
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